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More from Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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It is only possible to grasp the true dimension of the Amazon forest from space, occupying as it does one-third of the South American continent, an area larger than the entire European Union. Not marked are the land borders of the nine countries that share this ecosystem, although by far the largest part of the territory—over 60 percent—lies inside Brazil. At the heart of this extravaganza of nature is the Amazon River which, fed by some 1,100 tributaries, including 17 over 1,500 kilometers (930 miles) long, disgorges 20 percent of the world's freshwater when it finally enters the Atlantic Ocean. The rainforest also plays a crucial role in slowing climate change, notably as what is known as a "carbon sink." Put simply, every year its trees absorb around two billion tons of carbon dioxide, equivalent to five percent of total emission of greenhouse gases driving global warming. At the same time, the forest not only produces an important portion of the oxygen we breathe, but it also determines how much rain is delivered to other regions of South America and beyond. Nonetheless, with at least 17.25% of the biomass already cut down, the fear is that deforestation may soon reach "a point of no return" where the biome cannot recover, turning large areas of forest into tropical savannas.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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The communal maloca of Watoriki, Yanomami Indigenous Territory, State of Amazonas, Brazil, 2014. The Yanomami are the largest low-contact indigenous ethnic group in the world. They have a population of around 40,000 people, with 28,000 in Brazil and the rest in Venezuela. They live in mountains ranges and valleys in the far north of Brazil, in the country's largest indigenous territory. The land extends from the north of the state of Roraima to the Rio Negro in the state of Amazonas. Shamanism is central to Yanomami culture. Their main leader is the shaman Davi Kopenawa, a pioneer in the campaign to establish the Yanomami Indigenous Territory, starting in the late 1970s. In 1993, Haximu, a Yanomami community, suffered a massacre by illegal miners. This led to the only conviction for the crime of genocide in the entire history of Brazilian justice. The Yanomami include at least one isolated group.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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For centuries after Portugal colonized Brazil, the Amazon rainforest was nicknamed the Green Hell, an impenetrable rain-sodden jungle that offered only danger to outsiders. Many expeditions, above all those hoping to find gold in the mythical lost city of El Dorado, never returned. Some may have been killed by hostile native tribes or died of snake bites or starvation, but a surprisingly large number of explorers chose to settle down with indigenous tribes and share their bucolic way of life. Today, the rainforest is viewed more benignly, sometimes even romantically, as the Green Paradise, more often simply as an extraordinary treasure of nature, one with the planet's largest concentration of botanical species, including some 16,000 species of trees and innumerable plants with remarkable medicinal potential. Further, this unparalleled concentration of vegetation absorbs greenhouse gases and breathes out oxygen. It also offers a traditionally secure home to hundreds of indigenous tribes, some of whom have never had contact with the outside world.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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Village of Maronal, Valley of Javari Indigenous Territory, State of Amazonas, Brazil, 2018. Javari Valley, Marubo Indigenous Territory, state of Amazonas, Brazil, 2018. The current Marubo population is just over 2,000 people. The Javari Valley Indigenous Territory that they inhabit is one of the largest in Brazil, measuring 8.5 million hectares (21 million acres) and is home to several other ethnic groups: Korubo, Matis, Matsés, Katukina, and a variety of isolated groups. More than a century of coexistence with nonindigenous people is reflected in Marubo children's education, and learning Portuguese well is an important part of growing up there. This is why many of them end up becoming translators and intermediaries in interactions with government employees (such as nurses at indigenous health posts) and to support indigenous organizations' activities, notably through ongoing participation in expeditions to contact other ethnic groups in the region. Since the 1990s, the region has recorded high rates of hepatitis infection. Documenting the fight against disease was the reason for my first visit to the region in 1998, followed by another visit in 2018.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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Village Mati-Keyawaia, Valley of Javari Indigenous Territory, State of Amazonas, Brazil, 2018. Javari Valley, Marubo Indigenous Territory, state of Amazonas, Brazil, 2018. The current Marubo population is just over 2,000 people. The Javari Valley Indigenous Territory that they inhabit is one of the largest in Brazil, measuring 8.5 million hectares (21 million acres) and is home to several other ethnic groups: Korubo, Matis, Matsés, Katukina, and a variety of isolated groups. More than a century of coexistence with nonindigenous people is reflected in Marubo children's education, and learning Portuguese well is an important part of growing up there. This is why many of them end up becoming translators and intermediaries in interactions with government employees (such as nurses at indigenous health posts) and to support indigenous organizations' activities, notably through ongoing participation in expeditions to contact other ethnic groups in the region. Since the 1990s, the region has recorded high rates of hepatitis infection. Documenting the fight against disease was the reason for my first visit to the region in 1998, followed by another visit in 2018.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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The community of Maturacá, ascent to Pico da Neblina, Yanomami Indigenous Territory, State of Amazonas, Brazil, 2014. The Yanomami are the largest low-contact indigenous ethnic group in the world. They have a population of around 40,000 people, with 28,000 in Brazil and the rest in Venezuela. They live in mountains ranges and valleys in the far north of Brazil, in the country's largest indigenous territory. The land extends from the north of the state of Roraima to the Rio Negro in the state of Amazonas. Shamanism is central to Yanomami culture. Their main leader is the shaman Davi Kopenawa, a pioneer in the campaign to establish the Yanomami Indigenous Territory, starting in the late 1970s. In 1993, Haximu, a Yanomami community, suffered a massacre by illegal miners. This led to the only conviction for the crime of genocide in the entire history of Brazilian justice. The Yanomami include at least one isolated group.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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Aracá State Park, State of Amazonas, Brazil, 2019 Over the Amazon rainforest, rare is the day when you can see a clear sheet of blue sky or a solid blanket of gray cloud. Rather cloud formations offer an ever-changing spectacle. This begins in the morning when warm moist air rises from the jungle and makes contact with minuscule particles which permit the vapor to condense into water droplets and become little clouds resembling cotton balls known locally as aru. As the day advances, they rise and join forces and, temperature and wind speed permitting, gather strength to become a storm cloud known as a cumulonimbus. This is quite the most dangerous meteorological formation, reaching several thousand meters into the sky, spewing out pieces of ice and winds of up to 200 kilometers per hour (125 miles per hour) at the same time as sending lightning, strong winds, and fierce precipitation toward the jungle. Such is its force that even large aircraft will do everything to avoid it, helicopters immediately look for a jungle clearing in order to land and riverboats hurriedly take shelter from the blinding rain.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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Anavilhanas National Park, State of Amazonas, Brazil 2018 In the vastness of the Amazon rainforest, the region's age-old battle between land and water has spawned the world's largest freshwater archipelago, known as the Anavilhanas, with islands of every imaginable shape rising out of the dark waters of the Rio Negro. From the air, it is an astonishing sight, stretching as far as the eye can see. From the river, it is an immense puzzle, with only experienced boat pilots able to chart routes that guarantee a safe passage between the myriad natural obstacles. Most of the larger islands are themselves thick with tropical vegetation, but if estimates of the number of islands range between 350 and 400, it is also because smaller low-lying islands may temporarily or even permanently disappear when the rainy season lifts the river's water level by over 20 meters (65 feet). Thus, from year to year, satellite photographs can record the constantly changing formation of the archipelago.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado