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More from Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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Imeri mountain range, State of Amazonas, Brazil, 2018 The mountain range that defines the life of the Amazon basin lies far to the west of Brazil. But if the Andes provides most of the water that flows through hundreds of tributaries into the Amazon River, Brazil too can boast mountains. To the southeast lie the Brazilian Highlands, which include the mineral rich state of Minas Gerais. Heading north towards the heart of the rainforest, the landscape remains undulating, with a hilltop known as Serra Pelada in the state of Pará drawing one of the country's biggest-ever gold rushes in the 1980s. Even closer to the Amazon River, occasional large rock formations appear like intruders into the quiet order of the lowlands.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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For centuries after Portugal colonized Brazil, the Amazon rainforest was nicknamed the Green Hell, an impenetrable rain-sodden jungle that offered only danger to outsiders. Many expeditions, above all those hoping to find gold in the mythical lost city of El Dorado, never returned. Some may have been killed by hostile native tribes or died of snake bites or starvation, but a surprisingly large number of explorers chose to settle down with indigenous tribes and share their bucolic way of life. Today, the rainforest is viewed more benignly, sometimes even romantically, as the Green Paradise, more often simply as an extraordinary treasure of nature, one with the planet's largest concentration of botanical species, including some 16,000 species of trees and innumerable plants with remarkable medicinal potential. Further, this unparalleled concentration of vegetation absorbs greenhouse gases and breathes out oxygen. It also offers a traditionally secure home to hundreds of indigenous tribes, some of whom have never had contact with the outside world.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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Parima Forest Reserve, State of Roraima, Brazil, 2018 Over the Amazon rainforest, rare is the day when you can see a clear sheet of blue sky or a solid blanket of gray cloud. Rather cloud formations offer an ever-changing spectacle. This begins in the morning when warm moist air rises from the jungle and makes contact with minuscule particles which permit the vapor to condense into water droplets and become little clouds resembling cotton balls known locally as aru. As the day advances, they rise and join forces and, temperature and wind speed permitting, gather strength to become a storm cloud known as a cumulonimbus. This is quite the most dangerous meteorological formation, reaching several thousand meters into the sky, spewing out pieces of ice and winds of up to 200 kilometers per hour (125 miles per hour) at the same time as sending lightning, strong winds, and fierce precipitation toward the jungle. Such is its force that even large aircraft will do everything to avoid it, helicopters immediately look for a jungle clearing in order to land and riverboats hurriedly take shelter from the blinding rain.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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For centuries after Portugal colonized Brazil, the Amazon rainforest was nicknamed the Green Hell, an impenetrable rain-sodden jungle that offered only danger to outsiders. Many expeditions, above all those hoping to find gold in the mythical lost city of El Dorado, never returned. Some may have been killed by hostile native tribes or died of snake bites or starvation, but a surprisingly large number of explorers chose to settle down with indigenous tribes and share their bucolic way of life. Today, the rainforest is viewed more benignly, sometimes even romantically, as the Green Paradise, more often simply as an extraordinary treasure of nature, one with the planet's largest concentration of botanical species, including some 16,000 species of trees and innumerable plants with remarkable medicinal potential. Further, this unparalleled concentration of vegetation absorbs greenhouse gases and breathes out oxygen. It also offers a traditionally secure home to hundreds of indigenous tribes, some of whom have never had contact with the outside world.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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The communal maloca of Watoriki, Yanomami Indigenous Territory, State of Amazonas, Brazil, 2014. The Yanomami are the largest low-contact indigenous ethnic group in the world. They have a population of around 40,000 people, with 28,000 in Brazil and the rest in Venezuela. They live in mountains ranges and valleys in the far north of Brazil, in the country's largest indigenous territory. The land extends from the north of the state of Roraima to the Rio Negro in the state of Amazonas. Shamanism is central to Yanomami culture. Their main leader is the shaman Davi Kopenawa, a pioneer in the campaign to establish the Yanomami Indigenous Territory, starting in the late 1970s. In 1993, Haximu, a Yanomami community, suffered a massacre by illegal miners. This led to the only conviction for the crime of genocide in the entire history of Brazilian justice. The Yanomami include at least one isolated group.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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For centuries after Portugal colonized Brazil, the Amazon rainforest was nicknamed the Green Hell, an impenetrable rain-sodden jungle that offered only danger to outsiders. Many expeditions, above all those hoping to find gold in the mythical lost city of El Dorado, never returned. Some may have been killed by hostile native tribes or died of snake bites or starvation, but a surprisingly large number of explorers chose to settle down with indigenous tribes and share their bucolic way of life. Today, the rainforest is viewed more benignly, sometimes even romantically, as the Green Paradise, more often simply as an extraordinary treasure of nature, one with the planet's largest concentration of botanical species, including some 16,000 species of trees and innumerable plants with remarkable medicinal potential. Further, this unparalleled concentration of vegetation absorbs greenhouse gases and breathes out oxygen. It also offers a traditionally secure home to hundreds of indigenous tribes, some of whom have never had contact with the outside world.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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Village of Maronal, Valley of Javari Indigenous Territory, State of Amazonas, Brazil, 2018. Javari Valley, Marubo Indigenous Territory, state of Amazonas, Brazil, 2018. The current Marubo population is just over 2,000 people. The Javari Valley Indigenous Territory that they inhabit is one of the largest in Brazil, measuring 8.5 million hectares (21 million acres) and is home to several other ethnic groups: Korubo, Matis, Matsés, Katukina, and a variety of isolated groups. More than a century of coexistence with nonindigenous people is reflected in Marubo children's education, and learning Portuguese well is an important part of growing up there. This is why many of them end up becoming translators and intermediaries in interactions with government employees (such as nurses at indigenous health posts) and to support indigenous organizations' activities, notably through ongoing participation in expeditions to contact other ethnic groups in the region. Since the 1990s, the region has recorded high rates of hepatitis infection. Documenting the fight against disease was the reason for my first visit to the region in 1998, followed by another visit in 2018.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

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For centuries after Portugal colonized Brazil, the Amazon rainforest was nicknamed the Green Hell, an impenetrable rain-sodden jungle that offered only danger to outsiders. Many expeditions, above all those hoping to find gold in the mythical lost city of El Dorado, never returned. Some may have been killed by hostile native tribes or died of snake bites or starvation, but a surprisingly large number of explorers chose to settle down with indigenous tribes and share their bucolic way of life. Today, the rainforest is viewed more benignly, sometimes even romantically, as the Green Paradise, more often simply as an extraordinary treasure of nature, one with the planet's largest concentration of botanical species, including some 16,000 species of trees and innumerable plants with remarkable medicinal potential. Further, this unparalleled concentration of vegetation absorbs greenhouse gases and breathes out oxygen. It also offers a traditionally secure home to hundreds of indigenous tribes, some of whom have never had contact with the outside world.

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado

Amazonia - Sebastiao Salgado